Bouldering women, the finalists, a mix of power and immagination
Great boulders problems in the women’s semifinal. 4 problems which offered a mix of imagination and power. No one solved problem #1. Problem #2 proved slightly easier. Problem #3 offered a difficult rebus top. And then, last but not least, problem #4 started with sideways dyno for true masters of balance, and a contortionist finish. In short, problems which perfectly interpreted the soul of bouldering and, on closer analysis, split the field and created perfect results.
The first of the magnificent 6 to qualify is the lady of the rising sun, the never tamed and ever smiling Akiyo Noguchi, the only athlete to send 3 of the 4 problems. Hot on her heels, with 2 tops in 2 atempts, is the other most beautiful smile in bouldering, that of Anna Stöhr who once again demonstrated her truly unique form (the ease with which she sent problem #4 was impressive to say the least.)
The third finalist is another great athlete, Chloé Graftiaux from Belgium, who qualified for the final with 2 tops in 4 attempts. The blonde Russian Olga Bibik showed a form reminiscent of her former glory and qualified with 2 tops but one zone less than Graftiaux. While the remaining two to qualify, with 1 top, are two other specialists, Mina Markovic from Slovenia and Olga Shalagina from the Ukraine.
All the other 14 excluded from the finals they gave it their very best today. Anna Galliamova from Russia deserves a special mention as she is the first to be excluded from the final, as does Jenny Lavarda from Italy who fought hard and finished 8th overall. Her teammates Elena Chiappa and Alexandra Ladurner finished joint 18th. They failed to qualify for the final, just like some of the best boulderers in the world, including Johnson (USA), Gross (SLO) and Abramchuk (RUS). Bu this is how things go in bouldering, nothing can ever be taken for granted…
The finals tomorrow morning promise to be just as exciting and uncertain: the time for your diaries is 13.00, naturally at the Climbing Stadium in Arco!
by Vinicio Stefanello, translation Nicholas Hobley