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Semifinal men, magical bouldering

17 July 2010 Redazione Arco2011.it

m0274 boulders and 4 magic spells. Four irresolvable problems, unless some magic is used, hidden between improbable balance acts and dynos (on #1), or wriggles, contortions and plenty – but really plenty – of power – for the remaining three problems. This is the meaning behind the second round: a battle for the final dyno and ultimate invention which got the crowd to their feet.

Tsukuru Hori from Japan proved magical this afternoon as he was the only one to top out on three problems, in 11 attempts. But he wasn’t the only magician this afternoon; the 17-year-old Frenchman Francois Kaiser sent 2 problems in just 4 attempts – we’re sure we’ll be hearing more of him in the future.

Incredible Cédric Lachat was magical too, sending 2 problems in 5 attempts to become the third to qualify. And also the indestructible climber who, not even two hours after having qualified for the Lead final, managed to qualify for the Bouldering final. The real question is: how fit will he be this evening for the Lead final? A miracle will be needed, and if there’s one man for the job, it’s Lachat.

Two problems paved the way to the final for the extremely strong Russian Rustam Gelmanov and the great Slovenian Klemen Becan. And (the last to qualify) there’s the gentleman of bouldering, the Austrian Kilian Fischhuber. Once again he pulled the rabbit out of the hat, or rather, his top on problem #1, just as the time ran out, will long be remembered. It was on this beautiful problem that the only Italian remaining, Gabriele Moroni, invented a sequence of magical moves. But this magic didn’t last long enough and he eventually placed 10th… The ability of the athletes here today was extraordinarily high… Which leads us to think about what the final holds in store!

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by Vinicio Stefanello, translation Nicholas Hobley