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Live Climbing World Championship. Arco Day 9

23 July 2011 Redazione Arco2011.it

Ramón Julian Puigblanque  Lead World Champion.
Zhong & Krasavina Speed World Champions. Zhong new world record!
Angela Eiter Lead World Champion!


LIVE 23/07/2011

23.55 – Speed: online the competition report, the photos and video of the new world record

23.50 – Online the competition report, the photos and videos

23.27 – The final results
1 Ramón Julian Puigblanque 1981 ESP    Top
2 Jakob Schubert 1990 AUT    -50
3 Adam Ondra 1993 CZE    -50
4 Magnus Midtboe 1988 NOR    -45
5 Manuel Romain 1988 FRA    -41
6 Hyunbin Min 1989 KOR    -39
7 Evgeny Ovchinnikov 1971 RUS    -25
8 Evgeny Zazulin 1991 RUS    -23

23.07 – Ramón Julian Puigblanque: WORLD CHAMPION! Those who weren’t there won’t ever comprehend what this man did here tonight. Standing ovation for the king of the world and king of Arco. He’s the Lead World Champion!

22.58 – Jakob Schubert: Incredibile. Incredibile. But no top.He dynos foe the final hold, gets it, but doesn’t stick it… The time has come for the last one out:  Ramonette. The man who can make this final immense!

22.50 – Adam Ondra. A show from the start to the finish. The only thing that stops him is the final move for the finishing hold!

22.42 – Hyunbin Min. Precise. Physical. Dynoes from one hold to the next, no worries about taking risks. But he falls beneath the horizontal roof.

22.36 – Magnus Midtboe. Just like in the Semifinal he climbs with a black band out of respect for the yesterday’s victims of terrorism in Norway. He’s more concentrated than ever before. It’s his moment. The first half seems easy. Only on the red disk does he start to show signs of fatigue, but he fights on, to the enormous roof. He rests, makes another move and then falls. Fantastic! 47-

22.30 – Manuel Romain: climbs past the first filter. Then traverses left, searches for respite in the green volume. Before fleeing upwards and falling high up the route. Intense is a euphemism! 45

22.24 – Evgeny Zazulin: from Russia with power… Arete, sloper, arete, then… balancy move to reach high on the arete and he’s off! 23-

22.20 – Evgeny Ovchinnikov climbs the central arete, then reaches the first roof. Past the sloper, and on up the arete again. The route is intense… and he’s off! 25-

22.18 – FINALS READY STEADY GO! In campo il mitico Evgeny Ovchinnikov. Just like the women’s Final, the men’s Final is on the left-hand wall.

22.00 – Expectations are high for the great Men’s Lead Final due to start in just a couple of minutes. 8 climbers compete. The best.  This is the starting list, inverted compared to their Semifinal result:  Evgeny Ovchinnikov, Evgeny Zazulin, Manuel Romain, Magnus Midtboe, Hyunbin Min, Adam Ondra, Jakob Schubert and Ramón Julian Puigblanque.

21.51 – All is set for the Men’s Finals! We’ve just published the Speed portfolio.

21.15 – Fantastic competition: the Chinese ace Qixin Zhong wins the Speed World Championship and sets a new world record: 6.26. Stanislav Kokorin from Russia clocks 6.3 to win silver.

21.10 – In battle for 3rd and 4th, Danylo Boldyrev wins bronze by beating Ivan Novikov

21.00Maria Krasavina from Russia is the new Speed World Champion. Silver goes to teammate Anna Tsyganova. In the final for 3rd and 4th Tamara Kuznetsova from Kazakhstan beat Cuilian He from China.

20.40 – Here are the Male Speed Semifinalists:
Kokorin Stanislav RUS
Novikov Ivan RUS
Boldyrev Danylo UKR
Zhong Qixin CHN

20.20 - The 1/8 finals have just finished Those on to the 1/4 finals are :
1 Abdrakhmanov Sergey RUS
2 Hroza Libor CZE
3 Zhong Qixin CHN
4 Novikov Ivan RUS
5 Boldyrev Danylo UKR
6 Kokorin Stanislav RUS
7 Noya Erik VEN
8 Swirk Lukasz POL

19.43 – Speed Finals have just begun.

19.20 – Speed finals at 19.30. The Lead and Speed finals will be braodcast live via satellite on RAI Sport. 19,30 Speed, 22,00 Lead.

19.12 – The Lead finalists
1    Julian Puigblanque    Ramón     1981    ESP        Top
1    Schubert    Jakob    1990    AUT        Top
3    Ondra    Adam    1993    CZE        48-
4    Min    Hyunbin    1989    KOR        47+
5    Midtboe    Magnus    1988    NOR        47-
6    Romain    Manuel    1988    FRA        45
7    Zazulin    Evgeny    1991    RUS        44+
8    Ovchinnikov    Evgeny    1971    RUS        44

19.08 – Ramón Julian Puigblanque. Ramon Le Grand! TOP! He completely messes up the sequence through the roof but we’ve got the feeling he didn’t even notice!

18.59 – Schubert TOP! Young Austrian power! After his victory in Chamonix a few days ago, here Jakob Schubert fshows the world exactly why!

18.52 – Sachi Amma: superbly lightweight. But he too fails to find the right way through the roof. End of the line, provisional 8th, but still to come: Schubert and Puigblanque…

18.44 - 5in Sunday’s boulder championship, tireless Cédric Lachat fumbles through the roof, fails on the clip and then plummets.

18.37 – Magnus Midtboe climbs with a black tape wrapped around his arm, a sign of respect for the victims in Norway yesterday. The crowd is with him and he repays them with a superb performance. Provisional third.

18.32 – The Austrian surprise Mario Lechner climbs tense and falls much lower than expected. 36-

18.27 – Adam Ondra: fast. Decisive. He seems weightless as he breaches the roof. He climbs a hold higher than the Korean and falls. Not happy with his performance, but first!

18.22 – Like his teammates, Frenchman Romain Desgranges struggles through the roof and falls, just like Valeriy Kryukov from the Ukraine. The strongest are now to come: Adam Ondra, Mario Lechner, Magnus Midtboe, Cédric Lachat, Sachi Amma, Jakob Schubert, Ramón  Julian Puigblanque.

18.12 – Hyunbin Min from Korea waves to the crowd beneath the roof, chenges gear and cuts loose and climbs splendidly away into first place. 47 points

18.06 – Great comp for Russian Evgeny Zazulin, who falls on the crossover move leaving the roof. The winner of the Lead World Cup – Jorg Verhoeven – climbs well but then makes a mistake at the start of the roof and falls  (40+).

17.53 – The comp starts again with 23-year-old Frenchman Manuel Romain. He powers through the roof, to the first holds on the slab, then his foot slips. Enough to take the lead with 45 points, one more than Ovchinnikov.

17.41 – Provisional results. 13 athletes still to come:
1    Ovchinnikov    Evgeny    RUS 44
2    Tauporn    Thomas    GER 44-
3    Chernikov    Mikhail    RUS 42-
4    McColl    Sean    CAN 41-
5    Ballet    Thomas    FRA 40-
5    Supper    Gauthier    FRA 40-
7    Marin Garcia    Eduard    ESP 38
8    Rekabi    Davoud    IRI 27
9    Sova    Matej    SLO 26-
10    Mardashov    Anton    UKR 25-
10    Son    Sangwon    KOR 25-
12    Ischia    Martino    ITA 24.5
13    Skofic    Domen    SLO 24.5-

17.38 – Gauthier Supper falls at exactly the same point as his French teammate Thomas Ballet, while Mikhail Chernikov from Russia manages to make headway in the roof before dropping off: provisional third with 42 points. The first 13 have competed, now there’s a brief break to clean the holds.

17.27 – The Korean Son Sangwon falls low down (12). Next out German athlete Thomas Tauporn who surprised everyone with his bouldering skills – during last Sunday’s final he finished 6th. He nearly manages to climb through the roof, but at almost exactly the same point as Ovchinnikov who maintains the lead.

17.18 – French athlete Thomas Ballet finds the right rhythm to this dance all the way up to the wave shaped roof, then falls (40.00). The Spaniard Eduard Marin Garcia climbs quickly, but then messes up the clip in at the start of the roof (38). Davoud Rekabi from Iran climbs past the first filter but then falls on the slab (27.00). The roof is “defending” itself well.

17.00 – It’s clear by now: there’s a small filter which is already making illustrious victims, roughly around the 25th move. Only Sean McColl managed to climb past it (Domen Skofic 24.50, Matej Sova 26) but now Evgeny Ovchinnikov has climbed even further still, falling while leaving the roof.  44 points. A performance for… old warriors only.

16.44 – Ischia falls a just beneath Mardashov, points: 24.5

16.40 – Great cheers for the Italian athlete Martino Ischia!

16.38 – Just as it was for the Female Semifinal, the men climb up the right hand side of the wall. Anton Mardashov 25-. Canadian Sean McColl 41.

16. 32 – As always the Start List kicks off with the last athlete who qualified for the second round: Anton Mardashov, Sean McColl, Domen Skofic to gradually reach the group of six athletes who climbed reached the top of both qualifiers: Sachi Amma, Ramón Julian Puigblanque, Cédric Lachat, Mario Lechner, Magnus Midtboe, Jakob Schubert.

16.15 – The Semifinal Lead starts in 5 minutes. Those who have qualified for this second round are: Sachi Amma, Ramón Julian Puigblanque, Cédric Lachat, Mario Lechner, Magnus Midtboe, Jakob Schubert, Valeriy Kryukov, Adam Ondra, Romain Desgranges,, Hyunbin Min, Jorg Verhoeven, Evgeny Zazulin, Mikhail Chernikov, Manuel Romain, Gauthier Supper, Thomas Tauporn, Eduard Marin Garcia, Davoud Rekabi, Sangwon Son, Thomas Ballet, Evgeny Ovchinnikov, Matej Sova, Martino Ischia, Domen Skofic, Anton Mardashov, Sean McColl.

15.45 - Female Speed Qualification has come to an end. The following have qualified for the final:
1 Krasavina Maria RUS (10.19)
2 Tsyganova Anna RUS (10.24)
3 Alekseeva Kseniia RUS (10.30)
3 Heitz Margot FRA (10.30)
5 He Cuilian CHN
6 Titova Natalia RUS
7 Morandi Sara ITA
8 Ropek Edyta POL
9 Jaubert Anouck FRA
10 Levochkina Yuliya RUS
11 Neliwati Evi INA
12 Blanco Lucelia VEN
13 Savisko Anastasiya UKR
14 Kuznetsova Tamara KAZ
15 Prokopiuk Monika POL
16 Bud Gusaim Oleksandra UKR

14.42 – At present the Female Speed Qualification.

14.02 – The qualification Speed has come to an end. Abdrakhmanov the fastest in 6.69. Here are the 16 qualifiers:
1    Abdrakhmanov Sergey RUS
2    Hroza Libor    CZE
3    Zhong Qixin    CHN
4    Novikov Ivan    RUS
5    Bokanov Sayat    KAZ
6    Gontaryk Yaroslav    UKR
7    Boldyrev Danylo    UKR
8    Toozandehjani Hamidreza    IRI
9    Kokorin Stanislav    RUS
10    Komosinski Jedrzej    POL
11    Noya Erik    VEN
12    Swirk Lukasz    POL
13    Vaitcekhovskii Evgenii    RUS
14    Devyaterikov Artyom    KAZ
14    Dzienski Marcin    POL
16    Nigmatulin Alexandr    KAZ

13.45 – New fastest time by Ivan Novikov from Russia: 7.06.  Sayat Bokanov (KAZ) 7.30, Yaroslav Gontaryk 7.39 (UKR) Michele Sirotti (ITA) 9.50

13.17 – Manuel Escobar the fastest: 7.28, Stefano Ghisolfi a fatastic 8.70. Other times, important for the Combined:
Thomas Tauporn 10.46
Sean McColl 13.48
Cédric Lachat 13.67
Klemen Becan 16.26
Magnus Midtboe 21.31
Adam Ondra – two falls

13.00 – Speed Qualification in full swing. So far Erik Noya from Venezuela the fastest in 7.81, followed by two Indonesians, Yulianto Abudzar in 8.02 and Tonny Mamiri in 8.07.

12.22 – Just to remind you prior to the Speed qualifiers: the Lead and Speed finals will be braodcast live via satellite on RAI Sport. 19,30 Speed, 22,00 Lead.

12.15 – The Speed qualification begins in a quarter of an hour. 74 athletes registered, the leaders as usual speak the language of the east. Watch out for the likes of Adam Ondra, Magnus Midtboe, Sean McColl and Cédric Lachat – to name but four – who are at the starting blocks of their third discipline in the hope of winning the Combined title (Boulder + Lead + Speed). The fastest Italian is  Leondardo Gontero, but hopes also rest on Stefano Ghisolfi and the brothers Gianluca and Michel Sirotti.

10.00 – After the Lead World Championship won last night by Austrian Angela Eiter and the Team Relay Speed won by Russia, Arco is now preparing for another two world titles: Speed male and female and Lead male. The competition gets underway at 12.15 with the male Speed qualification and then, at 14.15, with the female Speed qualification. At 16.30 it’s time for the men’s Lead Semifinal: 26 athletes, of which only 8 will qualify for the exciting final at 22.00. Before them though, the “sprinter” finals. Once againthere is plenty in store here in Arco today and it’s bound to be exciting. Stay tuned…