Introduction Arco Rock Legends 2011
All the nominations for the VIth Arco Rock Legends, the sport climbing Oscars scheduled to take place on Thursday 21 July 2011 at Arco (Italy) with two awards, the Salewa Rock Award and the La Sportiva Competition Award. The celebration will be held during the Arco 2011 IFSC Climbing World Championship.
On Thursday 21 July 2011 and for the 6th year running the Arco Rock Legends will assign two prestigious awards: the SALEWA ROCK AWARD and the LA SPORTIVA COMPETITION AWARD, the sport climbing Oscars destined for those climbers who distinguished themselves most during the last season. The Awards take place during the most important event this year: the Sport Climbing World Championship which will be held in Arco from 15 – 24 July. As usual 5 superb climbers are in the running for the SALEWA ROCK AWARD – a prize which recognises not only the best performances outdoors on single pitch sport climbs and bouldering, but also bears in mind the style of the climbers themselves. 3 super athletes are in the running for the LA SPORTIVA COMPETITION AWARD and this, as the name suggests, will go to last season’s best competition climber. The nominations for this 2011 edition have been decided by 26 specialist magazines from 17 different countries: the Jury is exceptional and never before has it been so varied nor have so many magazines taken part.
SALEWA ROCK AWARD. The nominations for the “rock” Oscar couldn’t have been better and as usual these come hand in hand with some exciting novelties. Beginning with young American ace Sasha DiGiulian who last March produced a run of climbs which has few equals in the history of female climbing. The other novelty is the nomination of undisputed Italian talent Gabriele Moroni; after Manolo’s nomination in the first edition, this is the second time an Italian is in the running for the prestigious prize thanks to an excellent season both with and without a rope which justifiably left its mark. But the Jury will also have to analyse the performances of other illustrious climbers who have already been nominated at Arco in the past. Such as 2008 and 2010 winner Adam Ondra who, at 18 years of age, seems even more unstoppable than ever before. Another climber who dominates the crags in absolute terms is Chris Sharma and after his victory in 2009 he has now received his 4th nomination in 6 years.; this too helps explain why the 30-year-old American is widely considered “The King” of climbing. And, last but not least, the Salewa Rock Award is also up for grabs for young Frenchman Enzo Oddo who will come to Arco after an incredible year climbing across the globe. After 2010 this is already the second prestigious nomination for the 16-year-old. And who knows, perhaps 2011 will be his year?
LA SPORTIVA COMPETITION AWARD. The news from the competition front is the first-ever nomination for Ramon Julien Puigblanque, the athlete who over the years has won practically all there is to win in Lead competitions, i.e. climbing competitions with a rope. Last year the Spaniard won both the European Championship and the special Rock Master pre-World Championship event. He will by joined by Jain Kim from Korea, the undisputed power house who really came into her own last season by winning the Lead World Cup and the special Combined event which sums the results of all climbing disciplines. The trio is completed with, once again, that man Adam Ondra. It comes as no great surprise if, for the second year running, the climber from the Czech Republic has been nominated fro both categories, for rock and competitions. The La Sportiva Competition Award is the only one missing from his list, but will his victory in the Bouldering World Cup and the 2010 Combined win be enough to convince the Jury?
The answers to all these questions will be found on Thursday 21 July, when the Jury unites to select the winners, right during the IFSC Climbing World Championship which will take place in Arco from 15 – 24 July. This event, held in the cradle and the world capital of sport climbing, will see the best athletes in the world battle it out during 10 intense competition days like the world has never seen before. Absolutely something not to be missed!
HALL OF FAME ARCO ROCK LEGENDS
Salewa Rock Award - Josune Bereziartu (2006), Patxi Usobiaga (2007), Adam Ondra (2008), Chris Sharma (2009), Adam Ondra (2010)
La Sportiva Competition Award - Angela Eiter (2006), David Lama (2007), Maja Vidmar (2008), Kilian Fischhuber (2009), Akiyo Noguchi (2010)
INTERNATIONAL JURY 2011
President: Giorgio Balducci (RAI film director)
International magazines: Climax (AUT), Montana (CZE), Campo Base (ESP), Desnivel (ESP), Grimper (FRA), EscaladeMag (FRA), Summit (GBR), Climb magazine (GBR), Alpin (GER), Klettern (GER), UP Climbing (ITA), Rivista del CAI (ITA), ALP (ITA), Meridiani Montagne (ITA), Monte Bianco (ITA), RISK (RUS), Rock and Snow (JPN), Man and Mountain (KOR), Gory (POL), SA Mountain Mag (SA), Jamesak (SLK), Planinski (SLO), Rock&Ice (USA), and the internet sites www.8a.nu (SWE), www.ukclimbing.com (UK), www.mountain.ru (RUS)
SALEWA ROCK AWARD 2011 NOMINATIONS (in alphabetical order)Period: from June 2010 to May 2011
Sasha DiGiulian (1992, USA)
With two 8c+ redpoints and one 8b+ on-sight the 19-year-old American Sasha DiGiulian has crowned a month which has few equals in the history of female sport climbing and which forebodes well for the future.
Gabriele Moroni (1987, Italy)
One of Italy’s strongest with or without a rope, this year Moroni chose to repeat some European reference routes and also establish some of his own testpieces.
Enzo Oddo (1995, France)
After numerous 9a’s and a nomination last year, Oddo made the leap to 9a+ and proved his desire to test himself at other vertical games across the globe. The results didn’t take long coming for the 16-year-old Frenchman.
Adam Ondra (1993, Czech Republic)
Whenever he takes to the crags, the winner of two Salewa Rock Awards raises the bar. His same-day 9b first ascent and 8c+ on-sight will go down in history, and evidently the future of sport climbing still holds much more in store…
Chris Sharma (1981, USA)
After more than 50 attempts, May 2011 finally provided one of the hardest routes ever produced by Chris Sharma, winner of the Salewa Rock Award 2009. Determination and perseverance, combined with cutting-edge ability and a tireless desire to search and find new lines everywhere prove that “The King” still reigns.
LA SPORTIVA COMPETITION AWARD 2011 NOMINATIONS (in alphabetical order)
Period: competition season 2010
Jain Kim (1988, Korea)
Total domination and a competition season without rivals for the Korean who overbearingly won the Lead World Cup 2010 and also the special Combined event which considers all three disciplines, Lead, Speed and Boulder. Add to this the fact that Kim is reigning Asian Lead Champion and won silver in the Boulder event.
Adam Ondra (1993, Czech Republic)
Nominated last year for the La Sportiva Competition Award after his victorious Lead World Cup debut, in 2010 Adam Ondra took the sweepstakes and won the Bouldering World Cup and the special Combined. Add to this his two silver medals in the Lead and Boulder European Championship
Ramón Julian Puigblanque (1981, Spain)
A truly stellar year for this extremely strong Spaniard and former Lead World Champion, during which he dominated the Lead discipline and won not only the Lead World Cup 2010 but also the difficult and unpredictable European Championship. His list of victories proves he is one of the strongest competition climbers of all times.